Briefcase boom box
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Aye /diy/, I have a project idea, but next to zero know how on how to make it happen. I have a breifcase, and nothing to do with it.
So basically, I want to use some car 6x8 car speakers, and an old mp3 player I got lying around that still works to make a breifcase boom box. I saw a few projects that people made with things with this, but they all had huge spensive amps, and I dont have one. I have about 50$ Im willing to spend on this project if need be, but I want to try to keep my spendings under that.
So, how do?
(I'd also like to have the speaker visible from the outside, and have to like, drill holes in the side of the briefcase for sound to get through)
pic related. Its kinda the idea i have
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Hey /diy/, i come from /o/. hoping someone here has experience with car paint.
I'm getting into my first paint project and had a couple questions. I already got the tools/means to do it. Now i need to get the paint.
So first, how much should i expect to pay for all the paint supplies? Meaning enough primer, color, clear coat, thinners and other additives to do an entire small car.
Will they be able to match my paint exactly? Or at least close enough to where you couldn't tell the difference? It's not a factory color, it's a very deep, vibrant red but not bright red. I hear it's difficult to match reds. pic is the car/color.
Should i go to a shop (that actually does work) to buy my supplies or should i go to one of the small automotive paint stores?
Thanks in advance.
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So I have this Dremel SC544 wood cutting wheel.
It's meant for cutting dry wood, I think. One day I thought I'd use it to cut a small tree root. It didn't really work and in the end the carbine granules on the cutting edge ended up getting gunked up with baked on wood pulp. This is because at 20,000 rpm, at lot of heat is generated and the soggy wood particulates bake on to the hot wheel surface.
I guess this is akin to food getting burn on a frying pan, but with wood pulp.
I tried to use the wheel in it's current state, but it doesn't really cut as well as it should.
Do any of you guys know any tricks that might get this stuff off?
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Here is an interesting discussion (maybe). That me and a mate were having.
When using nails in a wood application where their sheer strength is doing the work; will the sheer strength be increased or decreased by drilling a small pilot hole first?
One thought is that, without a pilot whole, the wood becomes split internally, and likely to cleave along the grain loosening the nail over time, or even causing catastrophic structural failure.
Another is that the pilot hole reduces the amount of friction the nail experiences, thus physically decreasing the amount of wood holding the nail, allowing it to 'slip out' easier.
I'm inclined to believe the former rather than the latter.
Keep in mind, this is a discussion of sheer strength, not pull-out strength.
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What things would I need to consider if I was to convert my loft by myself?
For example, is it as simple as putting up insulation and plasterboard for the walls, solid wood for the flooring (beams and fixtures are sturdy, hold more than enough weight) and a little rafter window for ventilation and natural light, or is there more to it?
I don't want a staircase leading up to it, a telescopic ladder will be fine, I would also need mains electricity up there, is that easier to do before or after the conversion?