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>Fucking horror stories.
God damn. Just got home, was talking with my boss and his boss, and they told me this story about sick building syndrome. I'm not going into any details about the location or names. The scary part is, even googling the info brings up nothing.
>16 years ago. A large school district had 2 identical buildings built, each shaped like an asterisk but with 8 halls instead of 6.
First building took longer than expected, wayy longer. They missed every deadline but said fuck it, we'll make it up on the second.
>They had to be ready for the new school year.
They get both done on time. They move everything in, get teachers in and then eventually students. A few months go by and quite a few people are sick in the district. It gets worse and worse but they somehow limp to December and get the winter break. At this point, 3 kids have serious staph infections. It looked like 2 of the kids were going to die, so the district launched a major investigation. They looked at sick records and shit like that, figured out kids and teachers going to the rushed building had accounted for 90% of the records. All the staph infections came from this building.
They hire a team from a good engineering school in the state and they start looking at it, and do some preliminary testing. The air is insanely bad. They leave and come back with respirators.
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Pic related is my current desk. Its sturdy and I got it for free, but the actual surface is godawful. Everything slides everywhere with very little pressure, and it feels tacky.
Rather than get rid of the thing I was thinking about resurfacing just the top, but I'm really not sure what to use.
Anyone got any suggestions? I was thinking perhaps vinyl or a material similar to that of mousepads, but I don't know what that is called. Preferably I'd like to avoid stapling all the way around the edge, too. Anyone else do anything like this?
Plane Milling Aluminium with a Dremel
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I'm putting together a few combined preamps/headphone amps and I'll be using a case with a 4mm thick frontplate. Now, I'd love to use the Amphenol connector in the pic to have a neat looking 3.5mm headphone out below the 6.3mm phone jack to accommodate all kinds of headphones and enable listening with 2 pairs at once, however the little metal ring of the 3.5mm jack only protrudes 3mm from the casing. I figured I could make it work by milling an 8mm diameter, 1mm deep circle around the hole for the small jack, but I don't know whether that is possible with home tools. Is it possible to get a flat milled surface like that with a dremel? This bit looks like it might do the trick:
However, I don't know if it's even possible to use the top side of the bit to do the milling and if it is, I'm not sure how good the finished surface would look, and if it comes out rough I'd have no idea how to get it nice and smooth. Has anyone here ever done something like this without any real milling equipment?
My dremel is rated at 175W btw, I think it's the strongest model they have.
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first time poster here, let me give you some background info here
my uncle has a pretty cool clock he made out of an old (im talking late 90's/early 00's) cpu fan -like pic related, the clock is in the center where the fan was
now I want to do this too, but i wanna do it with a graphics card, you might say ask your uncle, and sure I could but he's on another state and works a job with odd hours so im pretty much on my own, which is why I'm here
Electrolysis of water for use in vehicles
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I’ve been working on this for a little while now. I’m working on electrolysis units for vehicles. Firstly, I’m fairly familiar with all the scams, the run your car on water, the water spark plugs, the resonant frequency of water, etc.
The type of unit I’m working on is often called a Tero Cell, basically several metal plates made out of a corrosion resistant stainless steel such as 308 or 316 stainless plates separated by gaskets. The two end plates are welded, or precut with a connector edge to of course connect your positive and negative voltage leads. The bottom of the plates, inside the gasket area have small holes drilled to allow even distribution of the water and electrolyte mixture. The top has larger holes to allow gas to escape, and during refill of water/electrolyte mixture.
My first version of this design is a little rough, I’ll probably make a new one soon, but I want to focus on integrating it with my vehicles. My first idea is to get a solar panel roughly the size of the roof of my vehicle, connect that to some kind of controller that interfaces with the car electrical systems to change current to the electrolysis unit based on the RPM or other demand criteria of the car’s engine.
So first problem is how to integrate that controlling system with the car. Basically, change the current input to the electrolysis up or down with the cars’ RPMs thereby changing the output of hydrogen coming out.
The second problem is how to connect the outgoing gas hose to the air intake system, such as drilling into the intake manifold, etc.
Third problem is preventing vacuum from the intake sucking in water+electrolyte mixture.
Fourth problem is more integration with the cars electrical system, namely, the changes it would cause in stoichiometry, and how that might change the car’s computer fuel calculations, O2 sensor readings, etc.
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Heya, /diy/. I've procured a massive LCD screen from an e-waste dump, and it _almost_ works. When I plug it in, I correctly get a detected monitor, the backlight turns on, and then... nothing. The screen is white. I figure that this is probably some sort of issue with the chip that sends the signal to the LCD panel itself, does anyone know where I could get one of these? I remember hearing before that it's a chip that would have to be flashed with the firmware for the particular LCD panel, if that helps. Can't remember the name, though.