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Sup Guys, I did a quick research on electrically stimulated polymers that change opacity wether or not they receive current. What i mostly got what SmartGlass, but its expensive as fuck.
I found an alternative with SmartTint, its basycally a pellicule you stick to glass. Its a lot cheaper.
I intend on powering it with a car battery. They offer on their site a mobile solution that works on 12V battery, which would be good for me, but you have to get a Pure Sine Wave Power converter they sell for 350$
My question is, how hard would it be for a 3rd year mechanical engineering student to make one for myself on a breadboard. I have some experience with diode electrical circuit, but I dont know if id be able to turn a dc current into ac that easily.
Home Renovation/Addition Thread
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Haven't seen a thread like this, maybe it's a flop but seems like a fun idea to me. We post our current home layouts and our ideal modifications to make our home better suit our needs.
Here's mine. We bought our first home less than 2 years ago. For the most part, we really like the layout, aside from the terrible master bathroom. It's tiny but worse than that is the layout doesn't even make good use of the space so it feels even smaller.
Our plan is to first knock out the walls of our hall closet, linen closet and the closet of our guest bedroom and turn it into the new guest bathroom. We have plenty of storage space in our garage and don't need a closet attached to that bedroom since it is used as an office.
After that is finished, we will knock out the wall between our guest bathroom and master bathroom to make it a true master bath, and basically build that bathroom from scratch since none of the fixtures will go to the same place.
By doing this, this keeps us at the original 3bed/2bath mark for when it comes to resale value, and allows us to have a working full bath while our much improved master bath is undergoing renovation.
The only work we won't be doing ourselves is the plumbing and electrical.
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during extreme cold, my bathtub drain has the bad habit of freezing. the drain is less than 18 inches from the exterior wall, and there doesn't seem to be adequate space for enough insulation.
the drain appears to have leaked down (circled in blue) and pooled (circled in green) and frozen due to cold air and cold ground. i don't see how there could be standing water in the drain, as it flows freely. i used some sulfuric acid about 2 weeks ago to noticeable effect, so i assume it's completely clear.
in this case, i assume that the water leaked out of a crack and froze on the ground, eventually causing water within the pipe to freeze as an 'icicle' built up. however, i still don't know why it's frozen before; there was never any sign of leaking, though the drain would slow noticeably when the temperature dropped below zero.
thoughts, opinions, advice?
Espresso Tech, General Plumbing/Wiring questions
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Hey /diy/ I don't usually frequent this board but I figured this would be ya'lls specialty. I'm starting my apprenticeship as a coffee technician, repairing and installing grinders, machines, brewers etc.
My first task is theoretically simple but pretty much includes the bulk of my job; Installing a FETCO CBS2052-e double brewer. I've taken plenty of pictures, which I'll share with ya'll.
I have just a few questions. I'm going to be using John Guest fittings for the line from the water main to the filter, and the filter to the brewer is going to be brass fittings. That being said, It's common in my industry to use PEX tubing and Sharkbite clamps for most things.
Is it worth the dosh to shell out for SharkBite brand pex-clamping tool and crimp removal tool? My Home Depot has the clamp tool and removal tool for about $90 after tax and that seems like kind of a lot, there must be a tool out there that does both things in one. Is there?
As far as wiring, I've never wired an appliance in my life and it's supposed to be rather easy but I don't know really where to start. I'll post the pics of the internals of the machine etc in a moment.
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Anybody have any idea how I might track down a datasheet or a pin-out diagram for a camera module off of a RC helicopter? It has the camera and sd card slot in one module, But I do not believe it has the receiver in it. It has a 4 pin interface with the helicopters main board, and I have identified which one is power and ground using a multimeter and sticking probes into the helicopters main board. I presume that the other two pins tell it to take a picture or start recording a video, respectively. My endgame here is to be able to use the camera module from the helicopter with an arduino instead of the helicoptor's main board triggering the picture/camera capture. Ill post more pics related, and provide details as needed. Iv done a search on the coptor model and could not find anything directly related to the camera module, and my multimeter experiments tell me that the pin for the red wire reads about 4.6V, the black wire is ground, and the blue and green wires normally read 2.948V. When I push the picture button on the controller, the reading on the pin on the main board for the coptor that would connect to the blue wire drops, but I could not determine conclusivly by how much. (some of the time there was no change, so I have a bad feeling that it might not be a HIGH/LOW game im playing, but rather a question of finding the right pulse or something) The green wire pin read the same voltage as the blue when idle, but I was unable to get any meaningful results by looking at its change when I told the board to take a video.
I tried replicating the described voltages with the analogWrite function with my arduino, however the camera did not power on when I did this. (there are two LEDs that did not go on)
>>TLDR; How do I control a camera module from an RC helicopter using an arduino?
pic related. I can zoom in on particular areas if needed, but cant put the original images in all at once because of size image limit.