96 more posts in this thread. [Missing image file: ]
guyz I saw this rechargeable battery mod for this Gameboy advance with a micro USB power jack and I want to do it for mine , I already tried /vr/ and /vg/ out of luck , did the backlight mod for it but I couldn't find anything on the web about this mod so somebody told me to ask you guys , any help would be much appreciated , the guy who did this said that the li- ion battery holds up to 9 hours of play time and takes 2 hours to recharge , help please I really want to do this to my device
6 more posts in this thread. [Missing image file: ]
I have a .7z archive which is corrupted and I get the "could not open ____ as archive" error.
While I was researching how to fix this error, I stumbled onto this page here: http://www.7-zip.org/recover.html which gave some good steps into figuring out which bit is corrupted and possibly fixing it.
37 7a bc af 27 1c 00 03 b5 00 df 61 e0 58 00 00
00 00 00 00 29 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 b8 5e 41 a9
I found that the end header length (29) at: 14 in the start header, seems to match up with the actual length of the
17 06 c0 60 58 01 09 80 80 00 07 0b 01 00 01 24
06 f1 07 01 0a 53 07 ac 83 50 cd 82 03 85 5d 0c
71 0a 01 20 36 13 ef 00 00
According to the article an end header should start with 17 or 01. since it starts with 17, the end header should contain the link to the metadata block (no idea what a metadata block is, or where the link actually is)
But, since it correctly starts with 17, and is the correct length the end header isn't corrupted, right?
Then I noticed that in the start header at: 0c, the value should reference the offset between the start and end header (which i assume is how you calculate the size of the file)
The value in my start header's 0c field is e0 58 which equals 57432 in decimal (does that mean the file should be 57,432 bytes?)
The actual size of the file shown in windows explorer is 22,200 bytes, and this number matches up roughly with the actual number of hexadecimal values between the two headers (58df) which equals 22,751 bytes (assuming I am calculating bytes from hexadecimal right, as I have not dealt with hex since high school comp sci)
So, what the hell can you all make of this? Am I completely retarded and doing this wrong? Or is the indicated header offset corrupted?
And what is the crc of the end header? the article briefly mentions it as being the last 4 hex of the start header, but doesn't really say what it signifies.
As always, any help would be greatly appreciated as I am in over my head on this one
how to do it
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ok guys, this is nurse shark skin, i soaked it in urine for 3 days and in bleach for 3 days, washed it with water and put salt on it, nailed on board and dried outside under the sun but it was board-side up, so there was no direct sunlight, things come out nicely i think, not much bad smell, color looks fine, but this is first time i every try to preserve any kind of skins, now questions:
1. its a little hard, i can bend it into any shapes but worried if it might break if i try too many times, is this normal for this stage?
2. did i forget something or did i do something wrong?
3. i am trying to make a wallet out of it, so from this stage on, do i need to do anythings to make it softer? or just make it and let it work itself into shape when i use it.
4. do i use tools like you would when you make a leather wallet? ie. leather cement, strings for leather binding and stuff.
5. is it necessary to wash the salt off and dry it again?
6. the most important thing, do i have girly hands?
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I have the opportunity to get an Emco PC Mill 50 for free, however unfortunately the computer that went with it (and thus the driver board) has since been scrapped. Now I'm looking to set this up in my shed and use a laptop with it any way so I'm interested in converting it to a more modern control system (I've seen Mach 3 being mentioned).
I have absolutely no experience in this sort of stuff (a fair amount of knowledge in manual milling though and I can handle electrical shit), so I was wondering roughly how much money and effort would be involved in this sort of conversion? I've read that using the existing stepper motors may be an option, but for a worst case scenario lets assume they're not. Will it be as simple as replacing these motors and then hooking them up to a controller board, hooking up the spindle motor, connecting power, limit switches, and then plugging it into my computer?
As an alternative in case this conversion is too costly or involved, what about converting it to a manual mill? I was thinking something along the lines of hooking the stepper motors up to some jog dials or something, the motor up to a speed controller, and then fitting a DRO (no idea how expensive they are or if they've even universal).