10 more posts in this thread. [Missing image file: zmotymn.jpg]
Always had an interest in jewelry, specifically ring making, for a while. I've mixed and matched stones to settings a few years back with various success, but it's opened my eyes to how cheap good quality precious stones can be.
I'd like to know how feasible it is to enter the craft from basically no experience, without formal education of it either. I'm an artist, so the designing isn't what needs to be learned, just the techniques and skills. The tools required is the other half of my question, and off the top of my head, I would need a ring mandrel, a flex shaft tool, a kiln, and various files,anything I'm missing? Obviously wax blanks.
I'd like to work with primarily gold and silver, so I'm not sure what kiln would be most economical, as I don't even know what qualities other than max temp to look for.
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Hey /diy/, I have an 8x8 LED matrix and I'm using 16 pins just to get one colour working. It's sort of a clunky way of getting it to work, so I want to use shift registers to free up some IO pins and to get the second colour working too.
Here's what I have planned:
- a single 74HC595 (serial-in, parallel-out shift register) on the anode pins
- two TPIC6B595 on the cathode pins, allowing the IC to sink the LEDs to ground, one for each colour
Now what I don't know about this part is whether the 74HC595 will be able to source enough current to be able to turn on every LED in its row. (datasheet says 6mA) I can have the matrix display a column line by line from left to right, or row by row from up to down. My plans are to do it from left to right, since each pin of the SR will drive 1 LED at a time and the other SR will sink 8 LEDs.
How is this idea? Any improvements?
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My girlfriend's son has a keyboard he broke. It had a broken DC jack which I replaced, and it worked great. During the time period the DC jack was broken, my girlfriend put el cheapo batteries in the unit which leaked. She cleaned up the outside, and I found they leaked on a pcb inside the unit. The acid was shorting two traces together, which caused the unit to play two notes when one was pressed. I cleaned the acid off, which solved the issue, but now I'm concerned about the bare copper oxidizing.
TL;DR battery acid on pcb, bare copper after cleaning
Can I use clear nail polish to seal the exposed traces?
Or does someone have a better solution?
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>get new desk
>want a chair
>black friday amazon sale
>buy £200 leather office chair for £39.99
>arrives when freinds are round
>set it up
>no stitching on the seat part, leather jsut wrapped around cushion.
>friends go "well it was on sale, guess you better return it"
>go into attic, get box of strings and sewing kit of my grans she left here ages ago
>select matching string to stuff on back part, thread needle and sew the seams up.
>looks better than all the machined stitching on the rest
>bros looking at me like im mad
>"h-how did you do that? where did you learn how to sew?!?"
>mfw i have never done it before and just /diy/'ed the problem and they are acting like im crazy or poor as shit.
How do you freinds react to your /diy/ antics, be they minor or grand in scale.
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Final Stealth Van thread.
>12v 900ah, 10kWh battery bank
>800w Solar Array
>12v 100a EV Charger (50 cents per kWh)
>160a Vehicle Alternator
>30a Inverter Charger from AC wall outlet
Thanks for helping me perfect the build /diy/, sharing my last revision. Added functional 12v ac, ev charging, better wiring diagrams, cleaner cable management, in addition to ironing out some stuff.
With rebates this could be a sustainable alternative to houses for less than $20,000. I'll post all the links later.