4 more posts in this thread. [Missing image file: Rawrrr.png]
So I have these four boards of leftover 9mm MDF from this other project. They're all 24" by 24" and I'm planning to take two of them and make a big-ass Risk board.
(One is halfway to becoming a Pente (or Go/Weiqi board), and I'm probably gonna make the last one into a monopoly board.)
Thoughts so far:
>Carve out the water to a lower level and fill it in with a clear resin so it'll have that water look.
>Maybe raise the countries a little, with clay or plaster to add texture there too.
(Advice on this? I'm not sure how well clay or plaster will bond to the board. Also don't wanna make it too unstable to rest pieces on.)
>Put magnets to the underside and make the pieces magnetic somehow.
>And add New Zealand (this has always bugged me, and this board's gonna be wider, so there's room).
If you have any cool ideas please contribute, but what I really am looking for help with is how to create the little army pieces (which were always the coolest part when I was atalented /diy/er. I could obviously buy some, but this *is* /diy/.
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>starting a new project
>5-channel audio mixer to take input from my TV, computer, radio, tape deck, and extra
>dual-gang potentiometers cost at least $10 each
>nothing at the dump ever has them in it
> available funds: $20
Well, fuck. I also need at least 14 RCA connectors, the panel-mount kind aren't too common at the dump. Anybody have any tips for finding this stuff for cheap or free?
Nonetheless I'm going ahead with the project. Attached is my doodle of a schematic. Just imagine it duplicated for stereo, I can't be arsed to draw the whole thing. Note that these are all linear pots, not log, the parallel resistor is to create a log curve approximation. I've had good results like this before. As you can see, it takes in 5 inputs in virtual-earth configuration, and has three outputs (two tape and one main) with levels selectable between +4dBU and -10dBV, and a selectable VU meter which is calibrated to read either 0dBVU = +4dBU or -10dBV, depending on what the output is set to.
A question I had for you guys: The case I'm using is from an old audio amplifier, and it has built into it a 30 volt power supply, which I left in when I stripped it. Since I need a dual supply for the op-amps, and ground is relative, can I just use a voltage regulator to provide a 15 volt supply, then use THAT as the ground, creating +15 volts (from the regulator to the + rail) and -15v (from the PSU's ground to the 15v regulator)? I don't see why this wouldn't work.
Also, what do you think of my schematic?
8 more posts in this thread. [Missing image file: 1x6 dog ear cedar 3-rail fence and (...).jpg]
Making a 8.5'x5.5' driveway gate. I am planning on replicating the gate in the photo and using 6x6x8 posts.Anything wrong with this guys method?
All I see driving around town are shitty looking saggy drive gates that drag along the ground or rely on a wheel. My driveway is bumpy gravel so I have to rely on this thing being stout and not sagging. He re-inforces his posts with a 2" steel flat bar, but I don't have a drill press or a way to cut a dado so I will probably skip that bit.
What would be a reliable method for setting the posts? The way I've done it in the past for regular fencing is this:
3.5' deep hole 4 inches wider in diameter than the widest part of the post. From the bottom: .5' gravel tamped down, set post on top, then 1.5' tamped gravel, 1' concrete dry add water and mix well, finish with gravel.
The posts I plan on using are 5.5x5.5x8 pressure treated from home depot, $33 a piece, is that a ripoff? What do I look for in a post? I seem to remember being told to get timber with as tight a grain as possible.
Finally, Are those adjust-a-gate things worth a shit? I need to do a double gate due to space constraints (and to distribute weight among two posts). But $200 for two metal frames is pretty steep, also as far as I can tell the hinges they provide only swing 90°.
Simple RF stuff
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I'm building a simple 1 condition remote indicator for my radar detector to my motorcycle helmet. I've already got an trigger LED tapped, so I just need to get the signal from the radar detector to the helmet.
I've used these simple digital sparkfun RF chimps before, and RF seems like only way to go here, but since they're digital I have to use 2 micro controllers, and since I just have a simple 1 condition device, I don't to send digital messages.
Can someone point me towards some basic on/off RF chips? Or is there a better way to tackle this problem?
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My fake leather office chair smells absolutely terrible. I disinfected it one too many times with strong cleaners (it's cheap enough that I wasn't concerned with keeping it in good shape) and it's recently started to smell quite odd. It smells very strongly like it did when it was brand new, and the smell can attach itself to my clothing if I'm in it for too long (which, as a 4channer, I quite obviously am).
Instead of buying a new chair, I thought I'd get some sort of cover for it. Since there's no such thing as an office chair cover, I thought I'd make one.
Does anyone have any ideas as to what the best method of accomplishing this would be? I was thinking of buying a nice blanket and modifying it to sit snugly over the back/seat/arms of the chair.
Thanks in advance!