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Need your help, /diy/.
Bought this jacket tonight, only to return home to find that they left the security tag on. I called, but of course they told me just to take it back to the store. Unfortunately, the store's pretty far away, and I won't have time to take it back for a while. Is there a way to get this thing off without damaging the jacket?
I included part of the receipt just to prove I actually bought it.
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Hey, I have recently bought the pair of boots in this picture but they are a bit loose around my leg, anyone have any idea how I would go about DIYing them into laced boots? Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance.
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I'm wanting to build some cubes similar to pic related for live music performance. They will be stacked and arranged in various ways to create interesting lighting effects and heighten the energy of performances at venues.
I plan to make these out of some sort of fiberboard with some type of opaque plastic or maybe simply stretch some white cloth across the light emitting side. Either way, I think I can figure out the construction, though suggestions here are appreciated as well.
Anyway, I'm trying to figure out what would be best for the light source within each box; they aren't going to be simply lit or occasionally change colors. Instead, they should be capable of bright strobe effects and rapid changes to accompany live performances track by track.
This will require them to be programmable rather than merely sound reactive, and I'm wondering if you have any suggestions. Philips makes these HUE LED lights that I have used before and work surprisingly well for bright strobes and can be any color imaginable, all programmable wirelessly from a tablet/phone while also being capable of sound reactive functions (different apps unlock different possibilities).
However, at $60 a bulb I was wondering if you guys had suggestions for other light sources that might work for this application. I plan to have 8-12 of these cubes to start.
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Hey /diy/, I have a newbie question for the car stereo wizards.
I have an aftermarket amp hooked to a factory radio, which does not include a remote-on wire. There's no power antenna output, either. So I have to hook the remote-on to the accessory power line, which means the amp is on if the car is on, regardless of whether the radio itself is actually on. I would rather the amp remain off unless the radio is on. And no, I'm afraid I can't just slap an aftermarket radio in there. I want to keep a factory-original look.
Now, between the radio and the amp is a 4-channel line output converter. High level wires go in, RCAs go out to the amp. BUT! There are also bare wire output terminals on there, right next to the RCAs. I was thinking that maybe I could connect the remote-on to one of those channels, but I'm afraid it would diminish that channel's signal range. I don't know.
What do you think? Is it better to leave the amp on full-time (it does have a temperature-sensitive fan back there, just in case), or would it be better to try the speaker channel remote-on? Your advice would be much appreciated.
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Can anyone explain polycarbonate to me? From what I'm finding, there are a whole bunch of slightly different polymers that are classified and sold as "polycarbonate". Are they all compatible with each other?
I want to solvent-weld polycarbonate rods (posts) to a sheet of polycarbonate coroplast. These posts will need to withstand some shear and pulling strain, but it should be minor and distributed pretty well.
My worry is that if the materials aren't identical, then the incompatibility may weaken the bond. Is there any easy way to figure this out?
Pic unrelated (and I have no idea what the backstory is on it, either).