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/diy/ Do-It-Yourself

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Anonymous 2015-01-09 03:47:06 No.753042

[Missing image file: ]

So I'm going to be making props out of aluminium and brass for a short film. But I'm kind of new to this casting thing and I would like to know how to effectively remove dross, how fast or slow I should pour the metal, and how to capture detail using the last foam method with greensand. Other tips are also greatly appreciated thanks.


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Anonymous 2015-01-09 03:50:04 No.753046
>short film
>"props"

You're better off 3D printing your dragon dildos, OP.

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Anonymous 2015-01-09 03:56:04 No.753048
Unfortunately I do not have a 3d printer, much less one that prints aluminium and brass.

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Anonymous 2015-01-09 04:08:27 No.753056
But thanks for the wonderful suggestion.

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Anonymous 2015-01-09 04:10:01 No.753058
>>753046
not op, but curious
dragon dildos aside, is their a way to use a 3d printer to make the wax original for a sand casting? seems like that would be neat as hell.

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Anonymous 2015-01-09 04:12:06 No.753060
I'm fairly certain wax is a useable medium for 3d printing.

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Anonymous 2015-01-09 04:15:03 No.753063
I made the comment about dragon dildos, but for a more serious reply:

What's the size of these props? Is the shape round or flat? Something as an out-of-focus background object (i.e. can be rough) or something that'll be in the foreground and needs to be presentable?

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T.R. 2015-01-09 04:36:29 No.753070
This is a bit of an end-run but, well, do they really Have to be brass and aluminum?

Casting resin shapes in silicone molds and then applying paint treatments for the proper color/shine would likely prove easier (and is what they would usually do in hollywood whenever they can get away with it)

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Anonymous 2015-01-09 04:43:59 No.753074
>>753042
Unless your project timeline allows for you to experiment and deal with a bunch of failed castings:

1. Buy ingots of casting alloys, they flow better and will capture more detail than random scrap, especially for aluminum.

2. Buy a fine grain premixed casting sand, a petroleum bonded sand will be more foolproof.

3. If you use ingots of casting alloy you shouldn't have huge dross problems, skimming with a piece of scrap steel should be fine. If you have issues, steel wool can be a field expedient filter for aluminum but you could also just buy a proper carbon or ceramic foam filter.

4. For lost foam, ensure you have plenty of venting. Use a thin wire to poke vents for detail areas, a thicker one for bulk areas.

5. Pour smoothly and evenly. If you have multiple cups/gates for one casting, pour down one until it's backed up to the top, then pour into another while it drains, don't be afraid to come back to a cup as long as it's still draining.

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Anonymous 2015-01-09 04:46:52 No.753076
>>753058
That is actually done by professionals, like jewelers and stuff. I think you could probably even just use the plastic from a cheapo hobby level 3d printer in castings, since it'll probably melt out at that temperature anyways.

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Anonymous 2015-01-09 04:48:28 No.753078
>>753058
For sand casting? Easy. All you do is print it and use it like any other pattern.

You can't do a lost foam, unfortunately. You can get wax prints, or use PLA or a burnout-ready SLA polymer for investment casting, but you will need a proper burn out cycle so the foam process won't really work.

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OP 2015-01-09 04:59:04 No.753085
To the dragon guy, the props are about 3 inches long. I'm also making them for personal use so yes TR I would like them to be very accurate. I'm am going to make two of the sonic screwdrivers from the show Doctor Who. I'm going to buy the toys, make a silicone mood out of them, cast them out of low density foam, and then use the foam pieces to do lost foam casting. Obviously some detail is going to be lost but I have a plan for that.

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Anonymous 2015-01-09 11:25:21 No.753171
>>753042
> remove dross

Just scoop it off the top, then pour. It helps to have metal which is dry and free of dirt, plastic etc.

> capture detail using the last foam method with greensand

You just make a foam pattern with gate and vents, compact it in green sand then pour through the gate. The fumes will pass through clay-bonded Green sand no problem - Expanded Polystyrene is 98% air.

It's really simple. But if you're using Aluminium make sure to build plenty of sprue to account for shrinkage - it can always be hacked off and remelted.

> how fast or slow I should pour the metal

You pour in one smooth action carefully until you see metal appear out the vents.

>Other tips

Brass (or alloys containing Zinc) means you need plenty of ventilation - ideally you should have a respirator. Either way move to a safe distance when you see the blue flame and white smoke - you don't want to be breathing in that shit, not unless you like the flu.

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Anonymous 2015-01-09 13:23:19 No.753187
>>753042
If detail is a concern, you may want to look into using a sand/plaster mix for your investment material. It is one of my personal favorites as it is cheap and easy to produce and I have been able to get fingerprint level detail with it. Look up ludo investment if you are interested.

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Anonymous 2015-01-09 21:44:23 No.753359
hey does anyone know if lost foam casting needs to be done with a certian foam? i want to use some of that foam that people use for cosplay so it easier in the long run. otherwise any info on it would be really apreciated.

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Anonymous 2015-01-10 00:01:28 No.753418
>>753359
Use styrofoam, I'm assuming you mean EVA foam, like garage floor mats, which may work, but you'll need to glue the thin sheets together to get anything decent sized from it, and I have no idea if that will affect the process or not.







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