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/n/ Transportation

Warning: All the content of this page originally come from 4chan.org. This is only a partial archive made to avoid destruction. Some posts and images may be missing. All the messages below have been posted by anonymous users and we do not guarantee any truth of what they said.
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Anonymous 2013-10-22 23:49:57 No.580107

[Missing image file: BQG1.jpg]

Old thread hit bump limit.

How often does /n/ replace a cartridge BB ?

I've got about 4000km on mine, some of those are winter rides. Starting to hear a creak at the same point every pedal rotation, and I think it's the BB letting off it's death rattle. It's a shimano UN55.


>>
Anonymous 2013-10-22 23:52:13 No.580109
Creak could be pedal or the square taper. Or even something saddle related. A BB should be noticeably gritty a wobbly before being replaced.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-22 23:53:38 No.580110
I've never counted the miles between replacing cartridge bottom brackets to be honest, I just ride with them until they're no longer serviceable. Previous anon has a good point about checking the bike over, but I've gotten funky creaks too when BBs get close to the end of their service life.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-22 23:54:00 No.580112
I'm feeling a bit of wrist pain after long-ish rides (30km+). Should I move my saddle back a bit? Tilt it up? Something else?

And yes 30km is longish for me, don't tease me ;_;

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-22 23:58:24 No.580114
>>580112
Tilt up slightly may help if the saddle is pushing your forward. Don't bother if the saddle is horizontal though.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-22 23:58:59 No.580115
>>580112
30km turned into 60km which turned into 100 for me. Don't sweat it.
I had a similar problem. My saddle was pointed down a little too much and I had too much weight on my hand/wrist because I was constantly pushing myself to keep from sliding forward on my saddle. Tilt your saddle back a bit, and increase the height if it's not already set correctly.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-22 23:59:26 No.580116
>>580112
As a general rule, saddles are only adjusted to change the way you pedal, unless you're sitting very far forwards I wouldn't change that.
The usual remedy for wrist discomfort is to raise the bars, this forces you to sit up straighter and moves some of your body weight off your hands and onto your butt. Also look at the way your bars are oriented, are they producing a painful twist in your wrists?

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 00:03:02 No.580119

[Missing image file: photo.jpg]
Is this headset supposed to have some sort of lock nut above the cone?

I'm constantly having to retighten.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 00:11:11 No.580125

[Missing image file: muBMFpA-w0rXmLu_vUORivw.jpg]
>>580116

No, no twist. I ride almost exclusively on the drops, so the saddle/bar drop could be what's causing the pain. The saddle is pretty much parallel to the ground, too. Thanks guys.

>>580119

Yes, there should be a nut above the race to keep it in place. Something like pic

>>
Velo Uber Alles 2013-10-23 00:15:42 No.580127
>>580112
Not enough info to blindly guess. Bar angle is also a possibility. Also, riding faster should help.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 00:22:52 No.580129
>>580125

>the race to keep it in place

u a rapper?

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 00:23:04 No.580130
>>580125
Thanks!

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 00:32:09 No.580132
is there a headset that will allow me to put a tapered fork on my old 1 1/8 frame, choices are very limited in non tapered at the moment.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 00:40:59 No.580134
Brakes starting squeaking while I was on a mountain trail. Is this normal or do I need to be concerned. Im just imagining its from the mud.
Also the chain jumps around when I hit any minor drop. Is this also normal. Relatively new bike.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 00:45:48 No.580136
I test rode a bike today, which had a SRAM Force group on it. I noticed I could lock the rear wheel with ease, even with my weight shifted rearwards.

Is this typical of modern dual pivot designs? I myself have BR-5500s pulled by BL-6401s, and have never been able to get the rear wheel to lock without significant weight transfer forwards.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 00:47:22 No.580137
>>580136
Yes.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 00:48:51 No.580140

[Missing image file: MerlinBlackbird02.jpg]
I'm trying to remove a quill stem/threaded headset and I've never dealt with this sort of thing before. Like an idiot, my dad and I completely removed the stem bolt without knowing what we were doing to remove the stem and the stem won't come out.

Upon doing actual research, I'm now certain that we fucked something up. I can't find any thorough descriptions of how a quill stem attaches to the steerer tube, but from what I understand, we dropped the wedge part (B) off of the bolt (A) when we completely removed it right?

Where do we go from here? The stem still rotates freely, but we can't get it out and I'm not entirely sure if I fully understand how the thing works anyway.

Help would be much appreciated before I take it in a week and have to explain to the new shop (first impression for the first decent bike shop this small town's had) that we fucked something up.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 00:50:46 No.580141
>>580140
Stick the bolt back in.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 00:52:45 No.580142
>>580107
>How often does /n/ replace a cartridge BB ?
I've got over 30000 miles on the Shimano 105 BB on my Trek Pilot 2.1, never replaced it, still turns smoothly, no play in it.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 00:54:22 No.580143
>>580141
We tried that. We then tried to do what I've gathered is the proper way to remove it (correct me if I'm wrong):

1. undoing the stem bolt by about a half inch
2. whacking with mallet and undoing the wedge
3. stem comes out freely(?)

That's what I've gathered from online, I can't find any good demonstrations or descriptions online, oddly enough, I don't usually have any trouble finding and following instructions from the web but quill stem removal/troubleshooting seems to be an oddly gray area.

I just don't want to fuck anything up too bad, my dad banged on the damn stem multiple times and I was getting nervous he was going to damage something.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 00:54:47 No.580144
>>580107
>Starting to hear a creak at the same point every pedal rotation
Remove pedals, clean threads, apply a little grease to threads, reinstall pedals, torque to specs.

Remove left-side crank arm, clean splines (crank shaft and crank arm), apply a little grease to splines, reinstall crank arm, torque to specs.

Tighten chainring bolts.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 00:55:52 No.580146
>>580143

Bang harder, longer.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 01:00:20 No.580147
>>580143
If the stem comes out, then remove the stem and stick the bold in from the bottom of the fork, then bang.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 01:02:29 No.580148
>>580140
If you dropped the wedge, it should fall out when you turn the bike upside down.

If it's rusted in place, try sticking the stem back in, and getting the bolt back on the threads. From there, try breaking the wedge off. Might help if you use some penetrating lubricant.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 01:20:16 No.580154
>>580148
>>580147
I don't think I explained my self very well, sorry about that. The stem isn't coming out, is the problem. We removed the stem bolt from the top completely, no problem, it just unscrewed right out, but the stem won't come out. I looked online and found what I think is the right way to do it, so we put the stem bolt back in and tried to do it the right way but it won't work.

The problem is that I didn't understand exactly how the quill stem attaches to the sterrer tube and I'm still not sure if I've got it down entirely, so what I'm left with at this moment is a stem bolt that can be completely pulled out of the top and a stem that won't itself come out, and I don't know enough about how the thing works to understand what I need to do or whether or not something is wrong.

Is the stem supposed to be able to removed after simply removing the stem bolt, could it be seized to the steerer tube or something?

Sorry for the ignorance, I'm pretty new to this sort of thing and I want to do this myself, just having trouble finding the info on how the damn thing works.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 01:35:39 No.580160
>>580154

This gonna sound dumb, but just pull harder. If you already removed the bolt, the stem should come out with a little force. Maybe if the bike is too old it could be rusted into place, try putting some penetrating oil between the stem and headset, and keep pulling. It has to come out eventually.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 01:36:33 No.580161
>>580154
When you tighten the bolt on a quill stem, the bolt pulls a wedge expander (sometimes this is a cone instead, same principle) upwards, effectively increasing the stem's diameter and jamming it into the inside walls of the fork's steerer tube.

When you have a stuck stem, the first thing to eliminate is the possibility that it's just the expander wedge keeping the stem in. Sometimes these get stuck, that's when you thread the bolt back in and give it a good hard whack to drive the wedge out of place so the whole stem can move.

If you can get the wedge to move and the stem is still stuck, that means the main body of the stem is rusted in place.

The solution to either bit being very firmly stuck is the same: soak it in penetrating oil (PB Blaster is a common brand name), for days if necessary, and eventually you will be able to break the stuck part free.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 01:37:31 No.580162

[Missing image file: sr-quill-stem.jpg]
>>580161
Forgot picture, this shows all three parts of the stem - the main body of the stem, the expander wedge at the bottom, and the bolt that pulls the expander wedge upwards.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 01:48:04 No.580174
>>580162
>>580162
>>580160
>>580161
Thanks a lot for the info, that clarifies a lot of stuff that I wasn't sure about.

I'll give it a go and if I still can get it I'll try the penetrating oil.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 02:18:00 No.580183

[Missing image file: DSCN4645.jpg]
>>580174
Managed to knock that thing loose.

Here's what we've got, a lot different from any of the pics I looked at though but seems to work the same way.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 02:25:43 No.580186
12000km on a octalink BB.
And thats because I replaced it with a square taper one,not because it had worn out.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 02:25:57 No.580187
is it a douche thing to do to get a (possibly old, used, but in good shape) road bike for the sole purpose of commuting?

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 02:26:26 No.580188
>>580183

expansion bolt. huh. don't see many of those at all. What sort of bike is this you're working on?

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 02:30:48 No.580190
>>580187

Of course not. Old road bikes are pretty much the best option for commuting.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 02:53:25 No.580199
>>580188
>>580183
Conical expansion wedges are pretty common on old French stems (like this Simplex stem) and the Gerry Burgess ("GB") stems that came on many Raleighs.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 02:56:40 No.580201
>>580199

I was going to just ask if it was an old French bike, but I didn't want to jump to conclusions.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 03:14:00 No.580213

[Missing image file: DSCN4340.jpg]
>>580188
1974 Schwinn Sports Tourer, nice relatively light-weight fillet brazed frame. I got it for a project bike and then decided I liked the frame so much that I kind of want to fully modernize it and make it my main bike (on a shitty flat-bar hybrid right now).

Right now I'm stripping it down because I have to have a guy straighten the rear triangle/ modernize the hub spacing in a week, and then repainted. I was the guy that posted a few weeks ago with the slightly bent frame, turns out I WAS able to find a shop willing to bend it back proper, he's got all the right tools for the job, just waiting on him to get his shop set up.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 03:17:48 No.580216
>>580213
Pretty sure I said this in the last thread, but that crank is sexy and will shine up nicely if you're so inclined.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 03:28:39 No.580226
>>580216
Yeah, it kills me deciding whether or not to modernize it more than anything else because just a decent touch-up session would have this thing shining like new, apart from the frame needing repainted.

At this point, I'm either going to completely upgrade it to a modern drivetrain with a nice shiny indexed/integrated shifting and a nice shiny compact crank for the hills around here, and brakes/wheels that aren't complete shit . . . or I could just restore this thing to it's former excellence.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 03:32:53 No.580228
>>580226

Do it incrementally. Modern brakes and levers first.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 03:43:19 No.580231
>>580226
Personally, I'd go halfway - get the frame cleaned up and rebuild it with all the original components with a few exceptions: convert to 700c wheels with a 7- or 8-speed cassette (or freewheel), replace the stem shifters with bar-end shifters (will work with the existing shift cable braze-ons, are more economical than brifters, and friction shifting with modern chains and 7-8 speed cassettes is super nice), and eventually find a nicer seatpost and brake levers (take the turkey wings off your current levers at the very least). Upgrading your brake calipers would also make sense, but centerpulls with good pads work pretty well (Tektro 559's would be the obvious choice if you go to 700c wheels). This plan would greatly improve the bike without costing a lot and without spoiling the vintage look either.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 03:57:15 No.580244
>>580228
Heh, kind of have to do it incrementally anyway due to constrained budget.

>>580231
Really doesn't sound like a bad way to do it at all.

If I wanted to keep it 27x1/4, how hard is it find modern wheels in that size?
How much different is 700, I haven't looked at it side by side with my hybrid, but just eyeing them looks like 700c and 27x1/4 a practically the same, what is the difference between the two?

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 03:59:17 No.580245
>>580244

You can still get brand new 1 1/4 27" wheels. They're mostly cheap and shitty, but they ride fine.

700c is lighter, faster, offers a wider variety of tires, etc

Somewhat rougher over road bumps though.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 03:59:20 No.580246
>>580244
>If I wanted to keep it 27x1/4, how hard is it find modern wheels in that size?
You can find them for replacement/restoration purposes, but it is impossible to find quality wheels or tires for that size. They are essentially obsolete.

>How much different is 700, I haven't looked at it side by side with my hybrid, but just eyeing them looks like 700c and 27x1/4 a practically the same, what is the difference between the two?
Bead diameter is 622 vs 635. They don't share tires, and you generally need longer reach brakes if you switch.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 04:34:24 No.580262
>>580244
you need 4mm of additional reach on your brakes. can be tough to get on more relaxed frames - on my panasonic, only the tektro long-reach brakes will work. there's literally no other brake that isn't ebay shit that will reach 700c's.

there's nothing inherently wrong with 27s, but tire selection is limited.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 04:35:35 No.580264
>>580262
You need 7mm of extra reach, not 4.

>>
Z-Poster 2013-10-23 04:37:10 No.580265
>>580264
I think he meant 4mm past what most regular brake arms will reach with the pads all the way extended.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 04:38:31 No.580266
>>580265
That varies based on frame clearances. What he likely remembered is that he needed 4mm more than his previous brakes had.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 05:04:49 No.580280

[Missing image file: hd-wallpapers-very-cute-b(...).jpg]
>>580265
no, i meant your reach will increase 4mm going from 27" to 700c (and not 7mm).

http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html
27 x anything 630 mm Older road bikes
700 C 622 mm Road bikes, hybrids, "29 inch" MTBs.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 05:10:04 No.580283
>>580280
700c rims are usually narrower and require a couple mm more reach than what a diameter comparison would have you believe.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 05:21:41 No.580285
>>580283
for that number to be 3mm the difference would have to be enormous. the caliper arm is nearly vertical; the additional reach would be a function of the sine of a few degrees. practically negligible. certainly not 3mm.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 06:13:17 No.580318
where can i go to get titatnium welded in the sf bay area?

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 06:34:17 No.580329
>>580318
SF Airport. From there you can catch a plane to China.

Your welcome.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 08:43:51 No.580370
>>580112
What handlebars?

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 10:35:05 No.580381

[Missing image file: ideas.jpg]
how hard would it be to replace the gear cables for this bike? I've never done something like that before. I know they need to be replaced because they are probably rusty

also, what is a good metal polish for old bikes? Mothers?

>>
Z-Poster 2013-10-23 12:01:32 No.580392
>>580381
The cables should be fairly easy to replace if you know how to tune a derailleur, or if they're friction shifters. What's more worrisome is that the cable stops appear to be severely rusted, and I assume the derailleurs aren't in much better shape.
Also don't put a brooks on that thing. God those seats are fuck ugly.

As for polishing it, just try cleaning it really well first. Like three or four times as best you can. If it's still not shiny then you can try a claybar to take off any excess crud. Just be sure to go over it with some wax afterwards to give the paint a good sealed coat. Just like a car, or motorcycle. Don't get either of these things near any of your moving parts though, or you'll have a fun time cleaning them after it dries.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 12:23:22 No.580395

[Missing image file: z-poster locked keys in car.gif]
>>580392
Why did you shave your head, bro? I liked your other hair cut. <3

>>
Z-Poster 2013-10-23 12:33:06 No.580397
>>580395
I just lost my shit. You sir owe me a new keyboard as this one is now covered in cheerios. I'm glad my head has inspired memes across 4chan. My hair is most definitely still in tact although its getting a bit unruly as of late.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 12:40:25 No.580398
>>580370

Ergonomic drop bars. This is my setup: >>579221

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 12:42:29 No.580399
>>580245

>700c is (...) faster

How?

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 13:35:03 No.580402
>>580399

less rolling resistance. not necessarily due to rim diameter, mind you.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 13:38:27 No.580403
>>580402

How then?

>>
babbylegs 2013-10-23 13:53:57 No.580406
>>580403
magic, right?

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 14:54:19 No.580410
>>580381
Use steel wool and light oil to clean BARE metal. And elbow grease.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 16:04:42 No.580416
What's the cheapest place to buy tires? I need a 700c.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 16:12:04 No.580417
>>580416
A 700c by what? Thickness is equally important. Try online sites such as wiggle, chainreactioncyles, depending on country.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 17:18:32 No.580427
what alu/carbon road bike would you recommend for US$1400-1500? want it as light as possible, tired of my 33 lb steel touring bike. should i just get any specialized/trek at that price point or are there lesser known manufacturers i can look into?

also, are all tubes pretty much the same?

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 17:30:03 No.580432
>>580427

I'd go with a Cannondale. Supersix if you can find one in your pricerange - not sure off the top of my head. Caad10 or Synapse if you can't.

Giant would be another good option - they tend to have nice spec and branded components.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 17:41:42 No.580436
The stock seat on my bike is uncomfortable and starting to break. Any cheapish recommendations for someone with a bony ass and a broken tailbone? I was thinking this one but I'm open to suggestions.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Honeycomb-AirGel-Tech-Seat/4645496

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 17:43:23 No.580439
>>580427

If I were to buy a ~$1500 bike today, it would probably be a 2013 Spesh Secteur Elite. Disc brakes are civilization.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 17:48:50 No.580441
>>580436

Saddles do not work that way. More padding = more discomfort. And unfortunately, nobody sells worthwhile saddles for less than about $90.

Popular options are the Selle Italia Flite Flo, the Specialized Romin, and Brooks saddles which are basically the ultimate in comfort but look weird as shit on modern bikes.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 17:58:39 No.580442
How do I know if I need to adjust the tension screw on the rear derailleur? It kind of shifts shitty in both directions now. I also get a grinding noise that I can feel in the pedals on some cogs when I go on muddy dirt roads. I'm not cross-chaining and I clean the drive train and chain once every week and relube it.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 18:01:53 No.580444
>>580436
>>580441
Spa Cycles make cheaper Brooks clone saddles, but I don't know if you can buy them in the US.

Also leather is uncomfortable at first. It takes 500 miles or more to mold to the shape of your ass. It's worth putting up with this because it's very comfortable afterwards.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 18:03:39 No.580447
my penis is stuck in my cassette, how do stop the bleeding without removing the teeth?

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 18:28:33 No.580458
>>580416
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=60829&category=585

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=40108&category=585

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=40107&category=585

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 18:34:26 No.580460

[Missing image file: BentWristWithPliers-3.jpg]
>>580398
Are you riding in the drops because the hoods are uncomfortable? I don't know the first thing about drop bars but it seems to me having the part you're supposed to grab pointing down puts your wrist in a pretty uncomfortable position (left side of pic). I'd try rotating the bar so the flat part points minimally upwards.
Roadies, feel free to explain why I'm wrong (no sarcasm intended).

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 18:48:08 No.580464
>>580441
>More padding = more discomfort

Not necessarily. Would you really put a narrow plank like the Romin on an upright comfort bike?

>>580436
What bike do you ride?

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 19:08:00 No.580465
>>580441
less than $90

Selle Italia Shiver seems to do me just fine and it was about £25

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 20:01:09 No.580476
>>580416
i got 700cc tires for as low as $3
big ol stack of like 40 of them

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 20:08:15 No.580483
>>580460

These bars won't let me set them up so that both hoods and drops are comfortable. If I set them up so that the ramps are parallel to the stem, I can use the hoods position just fine, but I lose the drop position and I'm left with only the hooks. And if I set them up so that the drops are parallel to the ground (like I have them now), I get the problem you described, so I avoid using the ramps/hoods at all. So as you see, my wrist pain problem doesn't come from the position (since I'm currently not using the hoods), but rather than a weight distribution problem.

I'm keeping an eye out for "regular" drop bars, these ergo bars suck balls.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 20:08:21 No.580484
>>580476
tires or tubes?

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 20:08:34 No.580485

[Missing image file: parts.jpg]
>>580483

Forgot my pic

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 20:11:03 No.580487

[Missing image file: laura4.jpg]
>>580406

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 20:18:56 No.580493
>>580483
Why not rotate them and ride on the hoods for the time being? If 30 km is a problem for you, the more comfortable sitting position will probably help you more than the aero advantage. Or just ride on the tops from time to time.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 20:21:19 No.580497
>>580493

B-but I like the drops

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 20:47:29 No.580510
So in september i bought a shitty walmart bike for 120 dollars because i needed to get to work.

my daily commute is 21 total miles (10.5 each day) and this shitty walmart bike is not cutting it. its too heavy, the shifter is terrible, etc..

I want to get something lighter, more comfortable, and all around better. Whats a good choice for the 300-450 dollar range?

I was looking at Vilano but i cant find much info about them, my roomate has a vilano fixed gear and he likes it but i dont want fixed gear and i cant find much info on the quality of their other bikes

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 20:50:33 No.580512
>>580510
Dunno how the USA bike scene works but:

Craigslist > Road Bike

1980's - early 2000's will be the best quality and prices.

Or read reviews of the entry level roadbikes

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 20:58:22 No.580513
is it wrong to put fenders and pannier racks on a road bike?

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 21:00:43 No.580514
>>580513
No.

>>
babbylegs 2013-10-23 21:04:02 No.580515
>>580476
>cc

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 21:32:20 No.580523
>>580465

http://www.bicyclehero.com/us/selle-italia-shiver-bicycle-seat-saddle-black.html?gclid=CIbdsPnzrboCFYpDMgodnCsAHg

this one?

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 21:34:15 No.580527
My front wheel is slightly wobbly.

What does that mean and how do I fix that?

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 21:38:58 No.580528
>>580527

loosen the quick-release, make sure the axle is centered in the dropouts, re-tighten the quick-release. If that doesn't work, your wheel is out of true and will need to be trued. You can do it yourself but it's kind've a pain in the ass to get good results. If you've never built a wheel before, I suggest having a bike shop do it.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 21:39:48 No.580529

[Missing image file: sc3_aqua_500.jpg]
is bikesdirect a good place to shop for bikes?

i would go to my local bike shop but they only sell like 2 brands of bikes, trek and something else i dont remember and they're all expensive as fuck

i was thinking about buying one from bikesdirect and then taking to to the LBS to have them assemble it and all the complicated jazz that i dont know like trueing the tires, but i dont know shit about these brands like galaxy, montebecane and mercier

pic related looks pretty nice though

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 21:40:50 No.580530
>>580527
When you say wobble do you mean side to side or up and down?
If it's side to side - sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/truing.html

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 21:44:18 No.580532
>>580529
bikesdirect is fine if you know what size you need. There really isn't much to assemble. You slap the wheels, pedals, and handle bars on it and you are done. You shouldn't need to true the wheels but you may need to adjust brakes and the derailleurs. Youtube has good vids on how to do all that stuff but your LBS will be happy to take your money and do it for you if you like. Kind of takes away some of the savings in going with a BD bike though to begin with.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 21:46:58 No.580533
>>580529
Bikesdirect can be a good place to buy bikes
Just like any other place they have shit bikes but also some good deals. In other words do your research.

If you're not completely mechanically incompetent, I'd recommend learning how to work on the bike your self. Most importantly because you're the one riding it so you should be able to fix it. But also some bike shops won't even work on bikesdirect bikes because online sales cut in to their profits. Some bike shops are also completely cool about it and there's everything in between these two.

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 21:51:22 No.580535
>>580532
oh i was assuming it was not assmembled because of how cheap they are

in that case fuck the bike shop

i took a second look at what they have and i think im liking this one the most so far, i've never ridden a bike with anything but flat bars so im more comfortable with those, and i like the skinny tires because i do 99% of my riding on the road or sidewalk (my commute to work is 10 miles down a highway)

im not really sure what the proper size to get is though, im about 5'11 or 6'0, im not even really sure what size my current bike (shitty walmart bike) is

>>
Anonymous 2013-10-23 21:53:43 No.580536

[Missing image file: avenue_fb_yellow_xii_2100.jpg]
>>580535
forgot pic







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