Buying a used hearse for a daily driver?
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So I'm browsing around for a vehicle to buy, and I've come across a fair number of used hearse dealers. This got me thinking: These things can seat 4 people in comfort, have big-block V8s, and can easily carry 600+ pounds in the rear, which is more then enough for my purposes (Would be used to carry motorcycles/my tools/my drumkit around, also could be used as a camper for road trips). I can pick up a solid one like pic-related with 100,000-150,000km on it for 5000-7000$CAD locally, and with the equivalent year/mileage big-block, 4-door pickup that isn't rusted to hell and back costs 8000$CAD minimum, I'm running out of reasons to say no.
Far as I can tell, the only flaw is I'd look like a bit of a edgy faggot, but just remove the curtains and trim from the outside of the tonneau and boom, heavy-duty big block muscle wagon.
Tell me why buying something like pic related is a bad idea.
Dew Trail CYOA #32
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I'm thinking 2-5 more threads left in this story depending on how fast they go.
Quick Summary: The J runs and it's time to test it.
You run inside to grab all your parts and throw them in the back, taking this extra time to get more accustomed to driving this car sounds like a plan. 1st thing you need to do is get to get the plate on and to get some gas.
Long before you turn into the station the attendant is staring at you rolling in.
"I think you need some mufflers!" he yells before you turn the car off
"I'm workin' on it, just need a couple bucks of premium right now."
No idea on the gas tank size but you only have $5, want at least a couple to race on.
"You gonna wake up the dead if someone don't shoot you 1st!" he replies before doing his job
After getting gas you head out to the same spot you've tested a few times before.
You figure you're only getting a couple of runs out of this before you get some attention you don't want and you have clue on how to go about launching this thing. You figure for a 1st run you'll just floor it and let the transmission do it's work.
Flooring it has the rear tires lighting up, forcing you to do a little throttle management, doesn't stop the transmission from shifting to 2nd causing you to spin there too. This car feels sketchy as hell.
At least when you do get some traction it goes damn fast, feels like it could do more if the transmission would shift a little later and faster. Here's to hoping that shift kit takes care of that, if not then you have the ability to shift yourself.
On top of that any imperfection in the road seems to make the steering want to jump around, a big bump might be enough to get you killed in this car, especially when you're going fast.
Speaking of fast you do come across the speed limit sign at over 100 mph, learning quickly that these brakes are worse than the '55's stock ones when you have to slow down for the upcoming corner.
/osg/ - Auto Sticker General
190 more posts in this thread. [Missing image file: ]
Auto Sticker General #61
Previous Thread: >>14392656
WAT RACING DEVELOPMENT
>Instagram (DM pics of your stickered up cars)
>List of Sticker Websites
>What is this thread for?
A thread to discuss, post, create, and review anything related to Automotive Decals and Stickers.
>Currently looking for:
>An internet lawyer ( ?° ?? ?°)
Idea Guys (Come up with Sticker Ideas, /o/ club names, etc.)
Anons with artistic talent willing to make decals for free.
Anons with decal production equipment (Specifically Vinyl Printer Equipment)
The current goal moving forward is to create sticker content and an cover up /o/ with decals
If anyone is interested in the above, send an email to email@example.com or post in this thread!
VIN CHECK THREAD
68 more posts in this thread. [Missing image file: ]
Last one is at its limit. Continued from >>14375886
Shamefully copied from legendary VINbro's threads
>I am able to run US/Canadian VINs and US plates. For plates, the plate and state are needed. Plates do work most of the time, but VINs are more reliable.
>Please remove hyphens (dashes) from VINs/plates - unless they happen to be part of a vanity plate. This makes copying and pasting easier.
>I can only run cars in/originally in the USA/Canada. If they've been exported from the USA/Canada, a report with their time here will be available. Not yet sure about imported cars.
>Cars need to be of the 1981 model year or newer. That's when standardized VINs began. Anything older simply cannot be run for a report.
>There are never I(i), O(o), nor Q(q) in VINs. This is to avoid confusion with 1 and 0. So if you are unsure, it is always 1 or 0 (not the case for classic cars, but they cannot be run anyway).
>VINs must be 17 characters exactly. No more, no less.
>If you want the PDF-file you can open the page source (F12) and search "amazonaws", copy the whole link and put it in your browser. This should allow you to download the PDF. If its not working send me an email at firstname.lastname@example.org. Please leave a reply if you do so
I need to know whats wrong with my car
28 more posts in this thread. [Missing image file: ]
I drive a 2006 VW golf chico 1.4. A couple of months ago, the neutral RPM would start dropping to 300-600. So to fix this for the time, I just pulled the choke to get it back to 1000. But sometimes when I drive around for a while (or I suspect; when it gets hot) the RPM raises again, so with the choke it would stand between 1500 - 2000, so I would just press it back in again.
So I took it to this guy to fix the problem, but all he did was set something so the RPM lays on 1000 without the choke. Now, sometimes when I drive around for a while, the RPM goes up to 2000, and I cant do anything about it. Which means that im wasting more fuel when Im standing still than when im actually driving.
Can someone explain to me what causes this?