VIN CHECK THREAD
128 more posts in this thread. [Missing image file: ]
Shamefully copied from legendary VINbro's threads
Old thread will unfortunately autosage while I'm asleep.
Old thread here - >>15472700
>I am able to run US/Canadian VINs (anything with a fitting VIN; bikes, cars and so on) and US plates. For plates the same rules apply as VINs; 1981 or newer, US registered, and the plate and state are needed. Plates do work most of the time, but VINs are more reliable.
>Please remove hyphens (dashes) from VINs/plates - unless they happen to be part of a vanity plate. This makes copying and pasting easier.
>I can only run vehicles in/originally in the USA/Canada. If they've been exported from the USA/Canada, a report with their time here will be available. Not yet sure about imported cars.
>Vehicles need to be of the 1981 model year or newer. That's when standardized VINs began. Anything older simply cannot be run for a report.
>There are never I(i), O(o), nor Q(q) in VINs. This is to avoid confusion with 1 and 0. So if you are unsure, it is always 1 or 0 (not the case for classic cars, but they cannot be run anyway).
>VINs must be 17 characters exactly. No more, no less.
>If you want the PDF-file you can open the page source (F12) and search "amazonaws", copy the whole link and put it in your browser. This should allow you to download the PDF. If its not working send me an email at email@example.com. Please leave a reply if you do so
13 more posts in this thread. [Missing image file: ]
Hey /o/. I have a Chrysler 300. I was attracted to it's flashy looks and 5.7l motor back when I bought it, kind of on impulse (pic related).
Now my evaporator core went to shit (among other things), and frankly I'm sick of it. So after I get it fixed I'm going to trade it in.
I'm a realtor, so I drive around all day, every day, so maybe I'm more conscience of mileage this time around.
Trying to stick under 30k, new.
What do I buy?